North Korean Defector Chefs Bring Culinary Heritage to Seoul

On a rainy Friday afternoon in Seoul, the aroma of North Korean cuisine wafted through a cozy samgyeopsal restaurant near Hongik Univ. Station. Curious guests filled the space, eager to sample an extraordinary feast concocted by chefs who once navigated the treacherous waters of defection.

A Journey of Resilience

Meet Chef Kim Won-jun

Among the chefs sharing their beloved dishes was Kim Won-jun, a 33-year-old defector who fled from North Korea as a child. Born into a privileged family in Chongjin, North Hamgyong Province, his life turned upside down when his father faced political persecution. At just 11 years old, Kim crossed the Tumen River, beginning a long struggle through homelessness before finally resettling in South Korea in 2007.

Now, he owns Nangpung, a humble restaurant in southern Seoul specializing in kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew). His culinary journey also led him to compete on Netflix’s popular cooking show "Culinary Class Wars", where he dazzled viewers with his talent.

“Today, I’m sharing dishes commonly enjoyed in everyday life back home,” Kim said with a smile, igniting excitement among diners.

Highlighting Tradition

Kim’s menu featured an array of authentic dishes: corn soup, dububab (tofu rice), North Korean-style onmyeon (hot noodles), and an innovative puffed rice ice cream. Each plate came laced with stories of warmth and tradition.

“The corn soup might sound fancy, but it’s just a traditional corn porridge we ate to stay warm during harsh winters,” he shared, evoking nostalgia for the simple pleasures of home.

His dububab, reminiscent of South Korea’s tteokbokki, captures the essence of North Korean street food culture. "Back in North Korea, you’d find this sold on the roadside, enjoyed by hungry travelers who stopped by on bicycles," said Han Song-mi, a human rights activist who assisted him.

A Culinary Exchange

Kim reflected on his experience in "Culinary Class Wars," stating, “The judge said, ‘It’s good but too ordinary,’ but to me, it meant success in conveying true North Korean authenticity.”

His playful dessert, puffed rice ice cream, was a nostalgic nod to his childhood. “There was no refrigeration in North Korea, so we’d mix water with saccharin and food coloring — that was our frozen treat,” he explained, blending innovation with tradition.

A Taste of North Korean Culture

Li Myong-ae’s Culinary Treasures

Another talented chef featured during the evening was Li Myong-ae, a defector and expert in North Korean cuisine. She prepared special dishes like Wonsan japchae, Pyongyang onban, and dak-kkopjil samsek ssam, showcasing culinary skills honed under a challenging regime.

“Pyongyang onban symbolizes reconciliation,” Li explained, emphasizing its significance in building bridges between two Koreas.

Li brought her unique perspective to the dak-kkopjil samsek ssam, a traditional dish utilizing often-discarded chicken skin. Her meticulous preparation transformed this humble ingredient into a delightful culinary experience, underscoring the idea that home-cooked meals hold treasured memories.

The Cultural Significance of Food

Li’s pear-stuffed kimchi, famously served at the 2019 Hanoi summit between Kim Jong-un and Donald Trump, was described as "the finest dish a chef can offer as a gift."

In discussing their culinary creations, both chefs emphasized how North Korean cuisine offers glimpses into forgotten traditions. "The division has made North Korea seem mysterious, but actually, its food preserves customs South Korea has moved beyond," Kim remarked.

Building Bridges Through Culinary Experiences

As the unforgettable dining experience unfolded, attendees found common ground in the heartwarming flavors. Laughter and conversation filled the air, as guests reflected on their experiences.

"This was by far the most meaningful — and delicious," said Angie Wanat, a Polish human rights activist, capturing the sentiment shared by many.

For Bae Eun-bin, the flavors reminded her of home, challenging preconceived notions of North Korean cuisine. "They weren’t unfamiliar at all; in fact, they were surprisingly comforting," she noted.

A Vision for Tomorrow

The event was more than a culinary showcase; it served as a powerful reminder of resilience, memory, and hope. Surrounded by lush decorations of barbed wire and greenery, the restaurant transformed into a poignant symbol of unity.

Li and Kim, with their culinary journey, expressed their hope for a unified future where North Korean dishes can be celebrated globally.

"If our cuisines unify, we’ll create the best dishes in the world," Li said, embodying the spirit of optimism and cross-cultural connection.

Conclusion: A Culinary Path to Understanding

This innovative culinary event showcased how food can transcend barriers, fostering understanding and connection between two Koreas. As the warmth of shared meals echoed through the restaurant, it became clear: these chefs are not just cooking; they are weaving together the narratives of cultural heritage and humanity—one dish at a time.

For more insights and delicious recipes from North Korean cuisine, visit Korea JoongAng Daily.

By embracing the deep-seated traditions and culinary artistry of North Korean defector chefs, audiences can learn more about a nation that is often portrayed through a narrow lens. Through their stories and flavors, these chefs are not only nourishing appetites but also fostering understanding.