Chef Vanessa Rose: Pioneering a Culinary Revolution in the Queer Community
In the heart of culinary artistry lies a profound narrative of growth, heritage, and the quest for belonging. Chef Vanessa Rose, the culinary mind behind Mother’s at House of Bridges, epitomizes this journey. With a background steeped in rich family traditions and an unyielding desire to create safe spaces for the queer community, Rose embodies what it means to use food as a vehicle for connection and change.
A Culinary Journey Rooted in Family
“I was incredibly fortunate to grow up in a household where home-cooked meals were a daily norm,” shares Rose. Her mother’s insistence on culinary independence in the kitchen fostered a spirit of creativity and self-reliance. “If I wanted a snack, I had to make it myself,” she recalls, starting her culinary adventure with simple delights like peanut butter and jelly. By age 12, she was conquering more complex dishes, from chicken and pasta to festive Thanksgiving feasts.
Rose attributes much of her cooking education to the cooking shows that captivated her childhood. “My parents recognized my growing interest and gifted me a Cajun and Creole cookbook from New Orleans. Cooking through every recipe opened my eyes to the intricate tapestry of influences that form New Orleans cuisine,” she reminisces. This experience solidified her appreciation for the myriad of cultures shaping culinary traditions, a theme that resonates throughout her career.
A Commitment to Community
Growing up in an upper-middle-class family, Rose acknowledges her privilege and feels deeply compelled to create safe environments for the queer community. “My parents always embraced me with open hearts and minds,” she says, recalling her multiple revelations—from rejecting Catholicism at 12 to navigating her identity as bisexual and polyamorous. Their unwavering support empowered her to pursue authenticity in every facet of her life.
Initially, Rose contemplated attending culinary school but was swayed by the pragmatic advice of others. Instead, she enrolled at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, seeking a degree in history, sociology, and political science with aspirations to become a professor. However, as funding in academia dwindled, Rose pivoted back to her culinary roots, driven by her passion for food and the desire to make a meaningful impact.
The Evolution of a Chef
Rose spent two years at County Clare, where she ascended the ranks from dishwasher to line lead and baker, before advancing to Braise. Her journey continued through Amilinda, Odd Duck, Balzac, and eventually Ardent, each experience contributing to her development as a chef. “I viewed my career as an educational journey,” she explains, meticulously analyzing the operational aspects of each restaurant to extract the best practices for her future.
Despite her diverse culinary experiences, Rose struggled to connect with her heritage. “I felt disconnected from my background in a culinary sense,” she admits. This led her to embrace a unique culinary style that blends techniques from cultures worldwide, embodying the principles of intersectional cuisine. “I aim for a decolonization of food,” she states, acknowledging this goal as a reclamation of culinary expression.
Creating a Queer-Centered Space
The inspiration for Mother’s, a queer-focused third space, was sparked by a chance recommendation from Chef Greg Leon to watch Pose, an acclaimed drama that highlights the vibrant lives of the LGBTQ+ community in the 1980s. “For the first time, I saw trans women portraying trans women,” shares Rose. The show ignited her passion for nurturing community and providing a haven for those traditionally marginalized in dining spaces.
“What I’m working on now marries my love for both social justice and culinary arts,” says Rose. She aims to nourish those who have historically felt unwelcome in restaurants, prioritizing the experiences of queer individuals within her establishment. This vision is not just about serving food; it’s about fostering a sense of belonging and safety for all.
Redefining Restaurant Culture
Rose is keenly aware of the flawed systems underpinning the restaurant industry, particularly regarding the concerns of the queer community. “The model for restaurants is often ineffective,” she notes as she seeks to redefine what it means to operate a successful eatery.
“Unlike previous generations of chefs who’ve paved the way, my peers and I face a unique set of challenges,” she reflects. The harsh realities of business loans and pressure to conform to traditional restaurant norms only add to the stress of running a dining establishment. Rose prioritizes the well-being of her staff and envisions a space that is more than just a restaurant; it aims to be a community hub for mutual aid and support.
A Vision for the Future
With Mother’s launched as a pop-up in 2024, the crowd’s response has been overwhelmingly positive, propelling Rose into the next phase of her vision. Currently, she’s raising funds through a NuMarket campaign to secure the former Company Brewing building at 735 E. Center St., which she intends to transform into a welcoming environment for all.
“What excites me most is cultivating a space where nourishment transcends mere sustenance,” says Rose. “I want to create a sanctuary that embodies peace, happiness, and a radical sense of community.” This is not just about exceptional food—it’s about nourishing the soul and celebrating the diversity that enriches us all.
In a world where intersectionality and inclusion are paramount, Chef Vanessa Rose stands at the forefront of a culinary revolution that honors heritage, embraces diversity, and champions community-building through food.
