The Evolution of Recommerce: How NZ Fashion Brands Are Reselling Their Own Clothes
The launch of Ruby’s pioneering secondhand store in Aotearoa marks a significant shift in the fashion landscape. Designers are pivoting by buying back their products for resale—sparking debate about whether this innovative model promotes sustainability or merely serves as a facade for greenwashing.
The Trendy Transformation of Recommerce
As you stroll through the bustling streets of Auckland’s Newmarket, a vibrant green sign beckons shoppers: Ruby Says Recycle. Inside, a curated collection of garments awaits, each thoughtfully arranged by size. From fluffy blue vests to samples marked "wrong fabric," Ruby is challenging conventional retail practices, blending sustainability with style.
Not far away, Kowtow presents a different flair. Their store is an oasis of fresh designs, punctuated by a Relove rack brimming with secondhand treasures brought back by customers. This initiative epitomizes the evolving nature of fashion consumption, signaling a new era where sustainable practices are taking center stage.
The Growing Resale Market: A Global Phenomenon
The resale market is experiencing explosive growth, with projections indicating an astonishing $47 billion valuation by 2025. This surge is largely driven by millennials and Gen Z, eager to embrace sustainable fashion choices. Platforms like Vinted, Depop, and New Zealand’s own Designer Wardrobe are revolutionizing how we buy and sell clothes. But Ruby and Kowtow are not just participants; they’re leading this transformative movement alongside global giants like Gucci and Adidas.
The Business Behind Sustainability
Far from being mere marketing buzzwords, terms like sustainability, circularity, and mindfulness are now intertwined with Ruby’s brand ethos. Emily Miller-Sharma, Ruby’s general manager, articulates this balance, emphasizing the importance of profitability alongside their commitment to sustainability. "We are a business," she asserts, underlining the need for financial viability while championing eco-friendly practices.
Ruby’s journey toward a more sustainable business model didn’t happen overnight. For over 17 years, Miller-Sharma has explored various ideas to combat waste and overconsumption, including sewing patterns printed on newspapers and upcycling fabric scraps into handbags. The Ruby Says Recycle initiative began as an Instagram venture during lockdown and has blossomed into a permanent storefront—much to the delight of eco-conscious shoppers.
How Recommerce Works
The mechanics of this recommerce model are refreshingly straightforward. Customers can return unwanted Ruby items to any store location, where garments are inspected. Sellers receive 20-40% of the potential resale price in the form of store vouchers, facilitating a seamless drop-off experience. With nearly 8,000 pieces already returned, Ruby aims to stock around 400 used items monthly, alongside new samples.
Miller-Sharma’s ambition is clear: generate 25% of revenue from secondhand sales by 2030. The initial success, with 6% of revenue attributed to recommerce in the last financial year, paints a promising picture for the future.
Kowtow’s Relove: A Digital Approach to Sustainability
Kowtow’s journey into the resale market mirrors Ruby’s but with its unique challenges. Launched in November 2024, the Relove program allows customers to upload photos of their unwanted Kowtow garments, facilitating a streamlined resale process.
While the labor-intensive nature of this system doesn’t make it a significant profit driver, it aligns seamlessly with Kowtow’s dedication to circularity and waste reduction. With over 1,000 pieces returned and an ever-growing customer base, Tessa Bradley, head of product and sustainability, envisions further growth, potentially establishing a permanent Relove store.
A Shift in Consumer Mindset
Back at Ruby’s Broadway location, Miller-Sharma notes, “Everyone can do this.” The success of secondhand fashion is reshaping perceptions, allowing it to compete with traditional retail giants. This transformation indicates not just a fashion trend, but a profound shift in how we engage with clothing and the environment.
Conclusion: The Future of Fashion is Recommerce
As New Zealand’s fashion brands embrace the recommerce model, they are demonstrating that sustainability can be both profitable and fashionable. With an increasing number of consumers turning to secondhand options, the future looks bright for brands like Ruby and Kowtow. Will this be the new luxury? Only time will tell, but the path is undoubtedly paved with green intentions and stylish solutions.
For insights on the latest trends in sustainable fashion, explore resources like Shopify’s Resale and the practices of leading brands gaining traction in the recommerce space.
