Amol Rajan Goes to the Ganges: A Journey Through Grief and Belonging at Kumbh Mela
Three years ago, BBC journalist Amol Rajan experienced a profound loss when his father passed away unexpectedly from pneumonia. This life-altering event set him on a personal quest that unfolds beautifully in the documentary, Amol Rajan Goes to the Ganges. With unfiltered vulnerability, Rajan dives into his grief, echoing the sentiments of many who have faced similar heartaches. As someone who resonates deeply with his journey, I found this film not only moving but also relatable.
The Quest for Belonging
At the heart of this documentary lies Rajan’s search for belonging, a journey that takes him to the Kumbh Mela—the world’s largest gathering of humanity. Over 45 days, approximately 500 million Hindus congregated along the sacred banks of the Ganges River. Rajan poses a resonating question: "Can an atheist like me benefit from a holy pilgrimage?"
This premise offers a layer of spirituality amidst the shadows of sorrow, making it an intimate exploration of faith, culture, and identity.
A Personal Reflection Amidst Historic Chaos
While the Kumbh Mela is a festival of monumental significance, Rajan’s documentary takes an unexpectedly depoliticized turn. Despite the bureaucratic realities—such as Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s investment of £600 million in the event—politics plays a tantalizingly minimal role. Instead, the focus narrows to human experience, vividly portraying the festival’s festival atmosphere.
As Rajan navigates the crowd, he witnesses heartbreaking scenes where vulnerability meets zeal. In one eye-opening moment, he describes horrifying crowd crushes endangering the lives of the elderly and vulnerable. "The people in front of me were just stepping on women," he remarks, capturing the chaos of humanity in stark contrast to the festival’s spiritual aim.
A Touching Family Connection
Before embarking on his journey, Rajan takes a poignant detour back to his childhood in Tooting, London. Reflecting on his roots, he shares light-hearted moments with his mother, evoking the bittersweet joy of nostalgia. “This was my field of dreams,” he muses as they pass a cricket pitch where he honed his skills as a boy. The playful banter between mother and son injects warmth into the narrative, mirroring the unbreakable bonds of family.
Rajan lays bare his vulnerability regarding his father’s death while sitting beside his mother overlooking the Thames. "I miss his love. Oh god, I loved him so much," he confesses, showcasing his raw grief that resonates with anyone who has experienced loss.
Immersed in Spirituality
Upon arriving in Prayagraj, Rajan’s journey intensifies as he molds into the fabric of the Kumbh Mela, meeting sadhus who, humorously, are more engrossed in social media than spiritual pursuits. The breathtaking scale of this temporary megacity—a 30 pontoon bridges, 250 miles of roads, and 150,000 toilets—astounds him.
As he makes his way to the Sangam, the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati, Rajan becomes increasingly introspective. Clad in orange robes and engaging with fellow pilgrims in broken Hindi, he embraces a sense of unity and shared experience.
A Healing Experience
Though Rajan ultimately does not reach the Sangam due to overwhelming crowds, he takes part in an ancient funeral rite for his father. This deeply emotional act of releasing his father’s soul underscores the documentary’s profound themes of grief and healing. “There’s a power in doing something that a lot of people have done for a very long time,” he reflects, hinting that though he retains his atheistic beliefs, he feels altered by the collective spirit around him.
Conclusion: A Universal Journey
Amol Rajan Goes to the Ganges is more than just a documentary about a religious festival; it is a journey that explores the complexities of identity and interconnectedness. Through Rajan’s lens, we see not only the grandeur of the Kumbh Mela but also the universal struggle with grief shared by many, particularly those from immigrant families.
This emotional documentary is available on BBC One and iPlayer, inviting viewers to partake in a shared human experience that transcends borders and beliefs.
For more on the Kumbh Mela, you can read about it here.
With its unique blend of personal narrative and rich cultural exploration, this film urges viewers to reflect on their own relationships, identities, and the legacies of those they have lost.
