Du-par’s taught me to love food, facing a red vinyl ghost.

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Rediscovering Du-par’s: A Journey Through Flavor and Memories

Unfinished Business at Du-par’s Restaurant

If you’re a lover of classic American diners, then Du-par’s Restaurant at the Original Farmers Market in Los Angeles may resonate deeply in your heart. Growing up in 1980s L.A., I slid into the smooth red booths of Du-par’s more times than I can count—probably around a hundred—that’s where I savored my first pie, guzzled my very first cup of coffee, and indulged in the tantalizing combination of Raspberry pancake syrup, date-nut bread, and the magnificent patty melts. My grandmother, a devoted food lover, instilled her passion for eating into me during these unforgettable weekend lunches.

Patty Merritt, a waitress at Du-par's, wears its old-time uniform. (Damon Winter/Los Angeles Times)

A Culinary Milestone

Fast forward 31 years, and an air of nostalgia drew me back to Du-par’s. This time, I stood at a crossroad—the inside or the patio. Little did I know that this seemingly insignificant choice would shape the trajectory of my visit.

Facing the Ghost of My Past

Returning to Du-par’s stirred haunting memories. The last time I’d sat in one of those red booths, I had struggled to wedge myself in, painfully aware of my size. I can still recall asking for help to escape that booth—a rather embarrassing moment for a child. However, this time was different. After undergoing weight-loss surgery, I felt a sense of triumph as I maneuvered into the booth with ease—tight, but nothing like before.

Each inch of that space carried whispers of the past. Memories surged back—so many life-changing moments, all tied to the love of food cultivated at Du-par’s.

The Essence of Du-par’s

Du-par’s was never just a place to grab a meal. It embodied joy and pleasure. My grandmother had her rituals, and I jotted down what she loved: that date-nut bread with cold butter paired with a cup of chicken soup or the flavorful Swedish meatballs. Naturally, no meal was complete without pie—a slice of mincemeat or boysenberry would follow coffee, sometimes garnished with words of wisdom: “Easy on the ice, heavy on the gravy.

Diners at Du-par's (Dania Maxwell/Los Angeles Times)

Confronting Change

Like many cherished establishments, Du-par’s is not just about food; it represents generations of experiences. With whispers of impending closure echoing through the Los Angeles culinary scene, the thought of losing this iconic establishment became unbearable. I received news of its financial struggles, compounded by the fallout of the pandemic, changing eating trends, and the pervasive rise of food delivery services.

In a city that constantly evolves, losing such a landmark is heartbreakingly familiar. I can think of my beloved Original Pantry, a place where countless memories were made over early morning breakfasts. When an establishment closes, it’s less about what’s on the plate and more about the life moments tied to it.

A Journey of Rediscovery

On this nostalgic lunch date, I ordered a stack of the legendary hotcakes. To my delight, they were just as delectable as I remembered—fluffy, golden brown, and drenched in melted butter. Yet my stomach, now significantly smaller, allowed me to indulge only partially. As I finished my meal, I urged my dining companion to leave ahead of me; I was determined to gracefully navigate my way out of the booth without a hitch.

And I did it!

A New Memory Created

As I stepped out into the sunlight, I felt a flood of emotions. I had not only revisited a beloved haunt but also created a new memory. Infused with gratitude, I texted a friend: “We should go to Du-par’s next time.” Those simple hotcakes had done more than fill my belly; they had stitched together a fantastic narrative of food, family, and fond memories.

In a place that bore witness to so much laughter and love, it’s clear that Du-par’s will forever hold a sacred spot in my heart. Food is not merely sustenance; it’s a connection to our past, a bridge to our present, and a joy we share with loved ones.


Explore More:

For more heartwarming stories and culinary delights, check out the Los Angeles Times Food section. Rediscover your own cherished food memories and dive into the evolving landscape of local dining experiences.

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