**French culinary maestro Pierre Daguzan** has a bold vision: combat the overstressed axis deer population on **Molokaʻi** by transforming them into gourmet delights. However, a **major hurdle** stands in his way: preserving these artisanal creations without relying on chemical additives and preservatives.
The solution could lie in a revolutionary machine owned by the state, tailored specifically to empower local artisans like Daguzan. Yet, the complexities of regulatory frameworks loom large, creating an **obstacle course** that few dare to navigate.
**Crafting Culinary Excellence: Daguzan Charcuterie**
The husband-and-wife duo behind Daguzan Charcuterie specializes in crafting exquisite **pâtés**, **terrines**, and other French charcuterie using the rich offerings of the land—local chicken, pork, and axis deer. While Daguzan dreams of scaling the business, he finds his ambitions stymied by a labyrinth of **food safety regulations**.
Recently, the **Department of Health** gave the green light for Daguzan’s delicacies, which embrace traditional French preservation techniques. However, these products currently possess a **shelf life of just 30 days**. For Daguzan, extending this time frame is crucial for expanding his market reach.
**Untapped Potential: The Wahiawā Center**
Central to Daguzan’s plan is the **Wahiawā Value-Added Product Development Center**, which houses a cutting-edge **high-pressure pasteurization machine**. This marvel controls the bacteria that can spoil food while preserving flavor—an essential tool for local artisans.
Despite these advancements, the machine has sat dormant for over a year, its potential unfulfilled. Peter Oshiro, program manager at the Department of Health’s food safety branch, notes, “The state is more familiar with **traditional preservation methods**.” For many, the leap to pressure-based technologies remains too daunting.
**The New Frontier: Challenges with High-Pressure Processing**
Although high-pressure processing (HPP) was introduced in the late 1980s, it gained traction only recently, post-2010s. The state’s hesitation stems from a lack of comprehensive regulations addressing this innovative method. **Hailey Zhou**, product development manager at the Wahiawā center, emphasizes the need for artisan food makers to demonstrate that HPP can effectively eliminate harmful pathogens, a requirement that has created a **significant barrier** for many.
“A lot of things are new to, you know, both the regulatory side and our center.”
— Hailey Zhou, Product Development Manager
**Pâté with a Purpose: The Sustainable Vision**
At a recent event at **Washington Place**, Daguzan showcased an array of his creations, including artisanal pâtés served on freshly baked bread. Each bite brings forth a **taste of home**, meticulously crafted from ingredients sourced locally. Alongside roasted nuts and flavorful hummus, they enchanted attendees with a unique blend of **French tradition and Hawaiian flair**.
For Pierre, born and raised in France, making pâté was more than a culinary pursuit; it was a **calling**. Courtney Ke’alaohalaomapuana Daguzan, his partner, imbues their creations with the **Hawaiian principle of mālama ʻāina**, signifying care for the land. Together, they hope to transform the invasive axis deer into a sustainable food source, thereby elevating local cuisine.
Pierre’s shift toward using axis deer not only offers a **practical solution to a pressing problem** but also reflects a commitment to sustainability. Overrun by invasive species, these deer often go to waste during population control efforts, costing the state potential food sources.
**Expanding Horizons: The Road Ahead**
Pierre is energized by the prospect of making his products more widely available. Currently, his delicacies can be found at local **farmers markets** and through platforms like Farm Link Hawaiʻi. He envisions a future where they adorn local restaurant menus, hotels, and eventually make their way to **continental shelves**.
To boost the shelf stability of his products, Daguzan is eyeing the **high-pressure processor** with great anticipation. This technology could enable him to offer shelf-stable items that cater to a broader audience, particularly crucial for the retail supply chain.
**Navigating Regulatory Waters: Understanding the Testing Requirement**
As **Oshiro** explains, the pressing need for a standardized regulatory approach is apparent in light of the FDA’s existing guidelines, which lag behind in addressing the unique requirements of **high-pressure pasteurization**. This regulatory uncertainty calls for extensive **testing**—a process laden with both time and financial commitments, often costing **$5,000 to $8,000** without the necessary lab resources currently available in Hawaiʻi.
The **Whitmore Food Hub**, expected to open by 2027, holds promise for local entrepreneurs seeking to harness HPP technology. Until then, many burgeoning food businesses find themselves in a **holding pattern**, unable to fully utilize their potentials.
Daguzan remains hopeful, evaluating options to invest in the required testing to lift the barriers against his ambitious vision. “This is not just about food; it’s about **community, sustainability, and opportunity**,” he believes.
In a world grappling with challenges to food security, supporting local artisans like Daguzan is paramount for fostering a resilient and self-sufficient culinary landscape in Hawaiʻi.
“Hawai‘i Grown” is an ongoing exploration of what it would take for Hawai‘i to minimize its reliance on imported foods and better cultivate local agricultural potential.
