Celebrating Queer Food Culture: Two Books that Extend Beyond Pride Month
The culinary landscape is not merely about flavors and textures; it also tells the rich, often-unseen stories of identity and community. Two recent releases—John Birdsall’s "What Is Queer Food?" and Erik Piepenburg’s "Dining Out: First Dates, Defiant Nights and Last Call Disco Fries at America’s Gay Restaurants"—bring to the forefront the intersection of food and queer culture, resonating far beyond Pride Month.
Understanding Queer Food
John Birdsall, a seasoned restaurant cook turned journalist, dives deep into the enigma that is queer food. "What Is Queer Food?" poses a question that has captivated Birdsall for years. Early in the book, he acknowledges, “Lots of us could say that queer food, like desire, exists, but nobody could definitely point through what it was.”
This includes everything from drag-brunch eggs benedict and rainbow cookies to more intangible offerings like intentional dietary choices. Birdsall ultimately arrives at an undeniable truth: queer food is not a distinct commodity. Its identity is as complex and diverse as the community it represents.
The Queering of American Cuisine
One of the major revelations in Birdsall’s work is that queer culinary culture is a rich tapestry woven from a multitude of narratives. He highlights figures such as Harry Baker, a Midwesterner whose unique cake style captured the essence of young Hollywood, and Esther Eng, a 20th-century filmmaker whose soulful restaurant in New York shattered social norms.
Birdsall writes evocatively, laying bare lives marked by societal rejection while celebrating their contributions to America’s culinary scene. His meticulous research and lyrical prose pull readers into a world where pain and pleasure coexist, echoing broader themes within the queer community.
The Heartbeat of LGBTQ Restaurants
In "Dining Out," Erik Piepenburg takes a more geographical lens, focusing on the spaces that have historically served as kitchens and gathering places for queer individuals. He opens with a poignant reminiscence of The Melrose, a beloved 24-hour diner that closed its doors after 56 years.
“When gay restaurants close, gay reliquaries empty of memory and meaning,” he writes, underscoring the emotional toll of losing safe spaces. Piepenburg explores how these establishments served not just as dining spots, but as beacons of community in a world often hostile to LGBTQ individuals.
The Ties that Bind: Food and Community
As Piepenburg crisscrosses the country, he pays homage to enduring institutions like Annie’s Paramount Steak House in Washington D.C. and Bloodroot, a feminist restaurant in Bridgeport, CT. His reporting balances history with present-day conversations about LGBTQ acceptance, revealing how culinary spaces have shaped identity.
Amid this exploration, he candidly discusses the often-unspoken connection between dining and intimacy. In a world where food can signify belonging, Piepenburg doesn’t shy away from acknowledging that dining out remains a form of self-expression for many within the community.
Beyond the Pages: Lasting Impact
Both authors released their books to coincide with Pride Month, but their narratives resonate far beyond just one month. Birdsall and Piepenburg offer insights that encourage readers to rethink what queer culture means in the context of food, showcasing how culinary narratives evolve and adapt through time and acceptance.
While Birdsall elegantly showcases the personal stories behind queer culinary figures, Piepenburg provides a historical and cultural context that situates these stories in the heart of community spaces.
Conclusion: A Legacy Worth Savoring
As you dive into these enlightening works, you’ll find much more than recipes or dining critiques. You’ll encounter a celebration of identity, resilience, and community—a reminder that food is more than sustenance; it’s a medium through which we express love, pain, joy, and solidarity.
So grab a copy of "What Is Queer Food?" and "Dining Out" and savor the stories that unfold, enriching your understanding of how food can shape culture and community.
