Eating Vegan in Europe: The Surprising Challenges and Triumphs
Traveling through Europe as a vegan can feel like embarking on an exhilarating culinary adventure. From morning markets in Paris to seaside cafés in Greece, it’s a land rich in flavors, yet navigating its diverse food cultures can also be unexpectedly tricky. Join me on a journey as I recount the most difficult—and surprising—places I encountered during my month-long adventure.
Southern Italy: A Cheese-Laden Challenge
Dive into Naples, the birthplace of pizza, and you’ll find yourself in a cheese lover’s paradise. Order a pizza without cheese here, and you might be met with puzzled looks or a genuine "Why?" From Campania to Puglia, mozzarella reigns supreme, making it a challenge for the plant-based diner.
I often found myself explaining "senza formaggio" (without cheese) repeatedly, discovering that even vegetables were sautéed with butter or garnished with parmesan. One evening in Sorrento, I requested grilled vegetables and ended up with a plate of eggplant drowning in cream sauce.
What Helped:
Olive oil and focaccia became my trusted allies. Mastering the phrase “Sono vegana, niente formaggio, niente burro, niente carne o pesce” (I’m vegan, no cheese, no butter, no meat or fish) opened doors to delicious grilled veggies, pasta pomodoro, and even custom pizzas that my non-vegan friends couldn’t resist.
Pro Tip:
Don’t limit yourself to apps like HappyCow in smaller towns. Seek out local pizzerias with wood-fired ovens that often make their dough from scratch, accommodating simple requests. Fresh tomatoes and herbs can elevate any dish, especially along the coast.
France: The Land of Butter and Blank Stares
French cuisine is synonymous with rich buttery delights. Arriving in Lyon, known as the gastronomic capital of France, I was excited but quickly disheartened by the scant vegan options. Menus overflowed with foie gras, duck confit, and creamy gratins. When I inquired about plant-based choices, one waiter dismissively replied, “So…just salad?”
What Helped:
Boulangeries turned out to be my saving grace! A traditional baguette, composed of flour, water, salt, and yeast, is entirely vegan. Pair it with fresh fruits or nut butter from local shops for a delightful meal. Ethnic eateries also provided invaluable refuge, with Vietnamese pho and Moroccan couscous serving as hearty, satisfying options.
Cultural Tip:
In many French kitchens, "vegetarian" may also encompass eggs and cheese. It’s beneficial to clarify your meaning by stating, “strict vegetarian, no dairy or eggs.” For a quick bite, Lebanese bakeries often serve falafel wraps and hummus that are widely available.
Rural Switzerland: Breathtaking Views, Hefty Meals
Switzerland is a postcard of idyllic landscapes, cowbells chiming in the distance, but it’s not exactly a haven for plant-based diets. In towns like Lauterbrunnen and Zermatt, menus are dominated by rösti with bacon, veal schnitzel, and an abundance of alpine cheese.
What Helped:
Local grocery chains like Coop and Migros offered reliable vegan staples, including lentil salads and oat milk. I also packed instant miso soup and dried edamame for added protein during hikes.
Hiking Tip:
Trail huts often serve vegetable soup—but always check if it’s made with bouillon cubes, which may contain meat extracts. I was pleasantly surprised when a hut owner happily heated my own food at no extra charge.
Spain: Tapas-Size Setbacks
Spain initially dazzled me with its vibrant vegan offerings in major cities like Barcelona and Madrid. However, venturing into charming little towns like Segovia and Cádiz presented its own challenges. Traditional tapas often include not-so-vegan ingredients such as anchovies, jamón, and aioli—usually made with eggs.
What Helped:
I quickly learned to construct meals from various sides, like combining pan con tomate, olives, roasted peppers, and marinated mushrooms. In Cádiz, I stumbled upon a tiny vegan bakery, a hidden gem run by a former Madrid chef ready to share her delicious creations.
Key Phrase:
Using “¿Lleva productos animales?” (“Does this contain animal products?”) proved more effective than simply asking if a dish is vegan. In regions like Andalusia and Galicia, local markets often have vendors offering fresh produce and legumes.
Germany: Sausage Dominance (Except in Berlin)
When it comes to vegan dining in Germany, Berlin shines like a beacon in the meat-heavy landscape of the country. With an array of vegan options from seitan currywurst to oat milk cappuccinos, it’s a dream for any plant-based traveler.
However, in smaller towns like Bamberg and Heidelberg, the reality changes drastically, often meaning heavy meals of meat and potatoes with few vegetarian options.
What Helped:
Taking advantage of Germany’s robust train system allowed me to stay in the vegan-friendly capital while exploring the surrounding areas. I packed snacks from Veganz, a localized plant-based grocery, before heading out, ensuring I had something to rely on.
Survival Kit:
I traveled with tamari almonds, fruit leather, and a jar of tahini. It may sound peculiar, but a drizzle of tahini can elevate plain bread and tomatoes into a satisfying meal. Pairing it with a salad from a bar was a game changer.
Greece: Rich Plant-Based Traditions Meet Modern Obstacles
You might assume that a nation renowned for vegetable-based dishes like dolmas and fava would be a vegan utopia. However, there are some caveats; olive oil is sometimes replaced with butter, and asking for "no cheese" can feel like a culinary blunder.
What Helped:
Inquire about fasting food—especially during Orthodox fasting periods—when many Greeks abstain from meat, dairy, and eggs. Traditional dishes like fasolada (bean soup) and revithia (chickpea stew) not only accommodate vegan diets but are mouth-wateringly delicious.
Language Bridge:
Using the phrase “Nistevo̱—katharí diatrofí” (Lenten/clean diet) can earn you a nod of understanding from older servers, making it easier to connect over a shared meal.
Lessons Learned (So You Don’t Have To)
After a month filled with menu scouring, nurturing local phrases, and forming a close relationship with gas station bananas, here is my advice for fellow travelers:
1. Pack High-Protein Snacks
Roasted chickpeas, trail mix, and vegan jerky have saved me in regions where fries and bread seemed like the only options.
2. Download Food Translation Apps
Consider using Google Translate offline, along with apps like HappyCow and abillion, but approach them with caution and double-check ingredient lists.
3. Learn Basic Phrases
Familiarize yourself with how to say “no milk, no eggs, no meat” in each country, as it fosters understanding and trust from locals.
4. Stay Near Big Cities
Big cities usually have a diverse food scene. Use them as hubs for day trips to smaller towns, but manage expectations when it comes to plant-based options.
5. Shop Local Markets
If possible, rent a place with kitchen amenities and buy fresh produce, bread, and herbs from local markets. It’s often cheaper and tastier and provides control over your ingredients.
6. Adjust Your Expectations
Not every dish will be Instagram-ready. Sometimes, a simple plate of pasta with olive oil is perfectly acceptable. Focus on the experience rather than perfection.
The Bigger “Why” Behind All This
Traveling as a vegan across Europe taught me that food transcends mere sustenance; it embodies identity, culture, and history. Each meal is a chapter of a local narrative. Requesting something different isn’t just a personal choice—it can influence the broader conversation around food.
I witnessed changes happening before my eyes. Young café owners in Lisbon enthusiastically offered oat milk. A curious Swiss grandmother asked what tofu was. I even met a Greek farmer who, after I declined cheese, offered me fresh figs with a warm smile.
Veganism, after all, isn’t about reaching a state of perfection; it’s rooted in intention. When you approach your journey with curiosity and kindness, you not only nourish yourself but also inspire new possibilities in the hearts and minds of those around you—even if they occasionally still sprinkle cheese on everything.
With this guide, you can prepare to navigate the European culinary landscape while staying true to your vegan lifestyle. Your journey doesn’t just open your palate—it enriches the world. Bon voyage!
